Episode 1 - Up to Speed

Sorry this video is so late and not-so-great quality. I had many technical difficulites getting it up and running but better late than never, right? After you enjoy the video I put together, please 
take a minute to add your thoughts to the link below or email me any of your ideas to customizing this thing. Happy holidays and a happy new year to all of you! Enjoy.

 http://www.zoomerang.com/Survey/?p=WEB22A2RA8GT4L

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Rear Turn Signal Troubleshooting

Although all bulbs were working properly when I first bought the car, soon after I had driven it home, both a rear side marker and rear turn signal went out. The rear side marker was a quick fix with a new bulb from Advance Auto but the rear turn signal was a different story.

I replaced the bulb in the rear turn signal and it still didn't work which probably meant one of two things, either the electrical system had a short to the turn signal or there could be a faulty wire or connection. I cleaned all connectors and connections with a wire brush and some fine grit sand paper and got no results.

So finally, I took out my Multimeter and tested each connection that went to the turn signal. You're checking for resistance when looking for a short which means a reading of more than 0.9 constitutes a short.

Turns out there was a short in the wire to the turn signal all the way up to the main connector. The problem is that nobody sells just the connectors with wires anymore so I was going to have to find a second hand one somewhere. I searched all over the place and finally got a response from Ian at http://www.944online.com/. If you need parts, have any problems or questions with your 944 you can ask them, they know everything over there.

He said he had a working bulb assembly that he would send to me for free and no shipping charge! It's a very rare thing that someone gives you anything for free these days so thanks a lot Ian. Even better, when I got the part in the mail he included all working bulbs and the case assembly for the tail light.

It was a quick installation and now it will pass inspection. Out with the old and in with the new(er).

--M/o

Idle Control Valve Cleaning / Vacuum hose replacement

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The previous owner gave me a list of the things he thought needed to be done to bring the car up to par and one of those things was cleaning the idle control valve which is pretty common in 944s and it's not such an easy job. The control valve stabilizes the idling of the car and it did idle a bit rough.

Some say you can get to the ICV (idle control valve) without removing the fuel rail and intake manifold which is true. You can remove the ICV but I'd say it's pretty unlikely that you'll get it back in. This is what I did...

I successfully removed the ICV without taking anything else apart which was a hassle due to small nooks and crannies I had to maneuver my hands around. You're lucky if you can even fit your hands between the intake manifold. If you have big hands forget about it. My girlfriend had to help with a few things because I couldn't get my hands in.

After removing the ICV, I cleaned inside and outside a few times with carb cleaner and lint free rags. Be sure to make sure the ICV is completely dry before reinstalling otherwise you could cause some expensive damage. When I looked into the little hole the ICV came out of with a flashlight I noticed a small vacuum hose that had completely dry-rotted. Aha! That was causing the rough idle!

Here's the quick list of the procedure:

1. Removed fuel pump fuse, and all hoses and cables connected to the fuel rail

2. Removed fuel rail, fuel dampener, and fuel pressure regulator

3. Removed a dozen nuts, bolts, and hose clamps to loosen intake manifold

4. Removed intake manifold

5. Removed fuel injectors, new caps, new o-rings, and cleaned

6. Removed dry-rotted vacuum hose

7. Installed new vacuum hose and cleaned ICV

8. Carefully scraped off old intake manifold gaskets

9. Installed intake manifold and new gaskets

10. Installed everything else I removed

11. Started the car and idled beautifully

If you do attempt this procedure on a 944, do have plenty of rags under the fuel rail when removing. Although the fuel pump has been disabled, there can still be plenty of fuel in the lines.

All in all, it wasn't that difficult of a job although it did take longer than expected. One thing to remember is, don't take anyone's word for things. Make sure for yourself. And as I've said before, keep in mind that there will always be additional parts you need to replace when taking them apart.

Progress pictures below...

Close-up of the engine with intake manifold in top of photo and fuel rail with fuel damper and fuel pressure regulator located between intake manifold and engine block. If you look closely you can see the idle control valve in between the two

center pipes of the intake manifold.

Removing vacuum hoses from fuel pressure damper and fuel pressure regulator. You can just see the bottom of the idle control valve indicated by the yellow arrow. There is just enough room to get a hand between the intake manifold.

Before removing the fuel rail you have to disconnect the electrical plugs from the fuel injectors along with all bolts holding the fuel rail to the engine block and the fuel lines to the fuel rail. Keep rags below fuel rail to catch any fuel left in the lines.

This is what the fuel rail looks like off the car.

In some cases, the fuel injectors come out with the fuel rail, but in this case only one injector came out. Just remove injectors one-by-one if this happens. Be careful when removing injectors, pull straight out or you could damage the caps or o-rings (red arrow pointing to injector that came out with fuel rail).

Remove all intake manifold bolts with care, they are very easy to strip since they are old, steel, allen-head bolts threaded into an aluminum intake manifold. Tap each bolt with a hammer and punch to "wake them up." Then remove all vacuum hoses attached to manifold and air box hose connector. Then you can remove the intake manifold from the engine (sounds easier than it actually is).

Right after you remove the intake manifold, shove some lint-free rags into the cylinders to stop any debris from falling into them. Then you'll need to carefully scrape off the old intake manifold gaskets with a putty knife or something similar. Be careful not to scrape the aluminum when doing this!

This is the famous idle control valve that the previous owner told me needed to be cleaned. It probably didn't hurt to do it but this was not causing the rough idling that I was experiencing. It was a small vacuum hose attached to the ICV that was cracked and needed to be replaced. To remove the ICV you'll need to unplug the electrical connector then remove the two vacuum hoses and nuts holding the ICV in place. To clean ICV, simply spray carburetor cleaner into both openings and drain several times. You'll notice the liquid coming out of the other end will become cleaner and cleaner.

Since I was removing the fuel injectors and cleaning them as well, I decided to get new caps and o-rings for them. The only kits for these (other than Porsche dealerships) are available from Rennbay.com for under $30.

The picture to the left shows 2 injectors side-by-side. The one on the right has been stripped of its cap and o-rings and the one on the left has been refitted with new caps and rings.

You can send your injectors away to get cleaned professionally if you feel they are not performing well enough.

Here is the fuel rail with the newly capped injectors attached. Be sure to insert injectors into injector holes at the correct angle so you don't bend anything out of shape. Reassembly is opposite of assembly so it's very straight forward. Just lightly grease new intake manifold gaskets, attach to engine block, and tighten intake manifold.

--M/o

Third Step: Body Work

When I bought the car, it had a small dent under the passenger headlamp that was ruining its appearance. Could I successfully pop this dent back out or would I need to fill, prime, and paint it? The answer turned out to be both.

I was able to pound out most of the dent with some mallets and clamps but there were still some areas that wouldn't pop out thanks to the solid sheet metal used on older cars.

So I sanded the area down with 320 grit sand paper and filled it with body filler. It took about 4 or 5 coats of filling and sanding to get the perfect surface I was looking for.

Since the nose panel and headlamp covers had so many stone chips I decided to sand down and prime them too. Luckily I had access to a spray booth because primer is highly toxic and should only be used in well ventilated areas.

I also filled and primed a few other areas of the car that needed attention including a spot by the passenger rear wheel and an area on the rear end. (There will be plenty more body work to come when I prepare the car for its new paint job.)

The results turned out great, especially given that this was the first bit of body work that I've done. Check out the results below!

--M/o

Second Step: Tune-up

It was obvious that the Porsche needed a tune-up based on some slight hesitation and lack of zip the car should have had. I went all over for the parts I needed based on price, quality, and convenience.

But before I could do any real work under the hood, I needed some new hood strut supports so it would stay open. I ended up searching on Ebay and found a pretty cheap pair.

Be careful when installing these on a 944 because there is very little clearance between the endpoints of the hood and the windshield. You'll see in the photo to the right how close the corner of the hood comes to touching the windshield (about 1/4 inch). When lifting the hood to install the hood supports, I cracked the driver side of the windshield without knowing. Terrible design Porsche! Luckily I had to replace it already so no worries. (click on any photo to enlarge)

For the tune-up, I started with Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs which don't require gapping and have four ground electrodes for optimal access to the air and fuel mixture. They were not very expensive and I was confident that they'd do the trick.

Next, a new distributor rotor from PelicanParts.com. It was a quick and easy replacement and made a huge different in the car's performance.

Good ignition wires took some time to source. They are expensive but are vital to how the car
starts and runs. I found a link on one of the many member online forums to some good, cheap Magnecor 8.5mm racing ignition wires with a lifetime warranty. If they ever go bad, you can get a free replacement, what a great deal!

It's important to install ignition wires in the correct order so the car "fires" in the correct order. Other wise the car won't run right and possibly won't even start. Do this by removing one wire at-a-time and replacing that wire with the correct new wire. This way, there is no mix up.

After all was installed and ready-to-go, I started the car and heard a nice, healthy sounding rumble coming from the engine. I took it out for a spin and instantly I felt a better response to the throttle and much more power.

Tune-ups are completely underrated and should be done at the mileage stated in your owner's manual. All cars are different so refer to your owner's manual for all procedures. If your car isn't running like it used to, give 'er a tune-up! Any costs are worth it in the long run.

After the tune-up, I threw on some new windshield wipers because the car desperately needed them. Cost of two new blades was $10.68

Next, I replaced the cracked windshield. I was able to source 1 salvage windshield with the embedded antenna in the whole tri-state area. Apparently the windshields cracking from the hood is a pretty big problem with these cars. I drove all the way out to Medford Auto Wreckers on Long Island to pick up this $217 piece of glass and drove it home laid out over the passenger seat for an hour and a half drive. It was nerve-racking to say the least but luckily I was able to get it home in one piece.

I had NJ Auto Glass come to my place and install the windshield in about 40 minutes. They did a great job and took the old, broken windshield with them. Not many companies will install glass that you bought from somewhere else but they were happy to do it. They charged me $125 for the installation. Together the windshield cost me $342. Much cheaper than buying a new one for over $500 plus installation.



The totals so far:

$2500 cost of car
$417.55 new tires
$115.92 tune-up
$10.68 wiper blades
$342 windshield + installation
$3386.15 total

Tune in for the next 944 job: Body work!

--M/o

First Step: Tires!

If you remember, the 944 had some rotting tires when I bought it so the first and most important thing to do was to put some good shoes on it. I took it to STS in Fair Lawn, NJ (the town where I bought the car).
I had never been to STS and actually went there just because it was nearby. I dropped the car off during the day and picked it up later that evening.
I chose the Federal SS-657's high-performance and all-weather because this is the type of car that can be driven any time of year (aside from snow).
One great thing about this 944, it came with locks for the lug nuts so the wheels can't be stolen. I left the manager with the keys to a car that I didn't legally own yet and went to get the it registered while I awaited my brand new tires.
The Federals turned out to be a good choice, very little road noise and they fill the wheel well nicely. I've tried hard to get these tires to slip, spin, fishtail but they stick to the road all too well. That combined with the limited-slip differential this car handles like a charm and laughs at curves for even trying.

STS gave me a pretty good deal and some goodies came along with the purchase. I got a 10% discount coupon for my next purchase, free alignment check every 12 months, free flat repair for the life of the tires, and free rotation for the life of the tires. Not a bad deal!

After the car was home and parked safely, I went straight to the sink, filled a bucket with soap and water, and went at the wheels to get them nice and shiny. After drying them off, I applied some Turtle Wax to protect from brake dust and corrosion. It's a good idea to do this before winter to protect your wheels from sand and salt. It will also be easier to clean them later since brake dust and dirt don't stick well on wax.

I threw some Turtle Wax tire shine on the tires and they were good to go. When applying any wax, grease, or slippery liquids, be sure not to get any on the brakes or brake rotors if you'd like your brakes to work.
So the 944 has some new kicks for a grand total of $417.55. That plus the cost of the car I've already spent $2917.55!

Next: tune in for the 944's tune-up!

--M/o

Used Car Buying Tips

Those who have been through the process of buying a used car know there are some sketchy cars out there with some pretty sketchy sellers. In fact there are more sketchy cars than you could imagine. You could say buying a used car is a gamble.

Mileage: Anyone with the know-how can change the mileage on today's cars. A car with 165,000 miles can easily be changed to 65,000 miles and some older cars actually only have 5 spaces on the odometer so the car could have "turned over" multiple times.

Lemons: There are tens of thousands of "lemons" that major auto companies have bought back from buyers and illegally resold in other states.

Theft: In 2006 there were over 1 million cars stolen in the United States. A good percentage of these cars were, and still are, resold illegally.

Water Damage: Hurricane Katrina caused 571,000 vehicles to become "flood-cars" which are being found all over the country after they had been resold with irreparable damage.

Accidents: Cars that have been in accidents which are fixed up and repainted could be a safety hazard, could have damage to critical parts, or they could just not be worth a dime.

Warranties: Many used car dealers will be quick to sell you a warranty to make you feel more confident but it's very likely it won't cover major repairs.

Misuse: Cars are misused by neglect, abuse, and simple ignorance. If the car hasn't been well maintained there will always be problems with it. This can be a very difficult thing to detect since the car will probably be nice and cleaned up for you.

Bad Titles: Some cars have title issues including engine swaps, mismatching mileage, fake titles, and some cars have no title at all.

Inspection: My advice is to stay away from a car without an inspection sticker.

Recalls: Many models have factory recalls that can be fixed by the dealer free of charge, but some owners neglect or forget about the recall and never get it fixed. Failure to take care of recalls can cause serious injury.

Lemons: Many issues with used cars can be resolved with a vehicle history report. The popular websites Carfax.com and Autocheck.com are easy ways to find out if a car has been deemed a lemon, has been in an accident, has flood damage, has been reported stolen, or has title issues.

A much cheaper way to find this information is through a government site called www.add123.com which is available in 28 states and soon to be 11 more. Although they are helpful, history reports cannot tell you everything about the car. For example, the car could have been in an accident but just not reported.

Theft: When it comes to theft, you must check multiple vin numbers on the car to make sure they all match. Stolen car's vin numbers can easily be changed for a clean history report so checking as many vin plates as you can is important.

There's usually one vin number on the front door frame on the driver's side or passenger's side, one on the the dashboard near the windshield, one on the engine itself, one on the car's firewall, one on the left hand inner wheel arch, one on the steering column, and there's one on the radiator support bracket. All numbers should match the number on the title/registration and if they don't it could be an indication that the car has been stolen.

Stay away from cars that need to be started with a screwdriver or that look like the ignition has been tampered with. This could be a sign of a stolen vehicle.

Water Damage: Although a history report can uncover water damage, unfortunately if it hasn't been reported it is difficult to spot because water damage can easily be cleaned up. A car with water damage can have major electrical problems that aren't obvious.

Check the engine bay first for water damage. Look for mold and other residue left behind from dirt and leaves. Do the same inside the car and in the trunk in addition to smelling the interior parts for musty or moldy stenches. Also, check the history report for past locations of the car. If it was shipped from New Orleans in 2005 or 2006 it might be a good idea to steer clear.

Accidents: Again, the history report is a great place to start but all accidents aren't reported. To physically check for accident damage open the hood, doors, and trunk to make sure everything opens and closes properly.

A sticking door can mean the car has been hit. Look down the sides of the car to see how "straight" the panels are. When you open the hood, check to see that the walls of the engine compartment are all straight with no bends or welds that look like they were done recently. See that the front panel of the engine compartment is completely parallel to the side walls. If it isn't, it means it has been in a front end collision.

With newer cars, if it has been repainted it might mean it has been in an accident and the insurance payed for a paint job. Look for "overspray" on rubber seals, gaskets, and boots. Overspray occurs the painter sprayed an area that wasn't supposed to be painted. Areas that frequently get hit with overspray are in the door hinges, around the inside of the engine compartment, under the wheel wells, and in the trunk compartment.

Look to see that all body paint matches. If there are areas that don't match in color it means certain panels of the car were painted or replaced. Snoop around these areas to catch any problems. Another sign of accident damage is mismatching headlamps. If one looks new, it is possible that that side has been hit and replaced.

I'll say this over and over, take the car to a mechanic to be inspected. It will be worth every penny you spend. He will be able to tell you if the car has ever been hit.

Mileage: Unfortunately mileage might be the most difficult of all to diagnose aside from a history report. Cars built before 1982 don't have available history reports and many cars built before this time only had 5 number places on the odometer. So, did the odometer pass 99,999 miles? Once? Twice?

One simple way to judge the approximate mileage on the car is simple wear and tear. In what condition is the interior? If the seats, steering wheel, and shift knob have lots of wear and tear the chances are the car has done a lot of miles.

Again, take the car to a mechanic who will be able to tell the difference between a car that has driven 99,999 and 199,999 miles a matter of minutes.

The same goes for buying more modern used cars, if it doesn't run like a car that only has 60,000 miles on it, chances are that the mileage has been changed. You have to look out for this with dealerships and garages more than private sellers.

Warranties: When buying from a dealership the car salesperson will want to sell you a warranty. Don't waste your money! They'll tell you you need it because if something expensive goes wrong it will cover it. If something expensive goes wrong, chances are it'll still be coming out of your pocket. Warranties only cover certain items so make sure you read every word of the warranty to find out exactly what is and what isn't covered.

Misuse: I could probably write a whole book on car abuse and neglect but I'll keep it short and sweet. Bring it to a mechanic if you think the car may have been misused or not taken care of.

Bad Titles: If you're buying a car for an everyday driver and the car you're looking at has any title issues don't bother looking at it. There are plenty of other cars out there that are the same make/model/color without any title issues.

With all of these issues you should always be prepared. A few things you can do to slim the chances of getting stuck with a car with big problems are;

• Research! Before looking at anything do plenty of research on the car you're looking to buy. Find out problem areas, cost of repairs, general wear and tear, and cost of maintenance. Some cars have high maintenance costs some just have lots of problems. Also research recalls and ask the owner if the recalls have been fixed. If so, does he or she have proof.
• Bring a friend: Having a person with you while looking at a car is a huge benefit. It allows a second pair of eyes and ears to check the car. Have them start the car and rev it for you while you stand at the back and front of the car to listen to the exhaust and engine. You can also have your friend talk to the owner of the car while you pay attention to the car itself. Bring a pad to take notes on and if you're really ambitious, bring a camera.
• Look at more than one: If you have a car in mind, try to look at and test drive as many as possible. Go to a few private sellers and dealers even if the cars are over priced and aren't exactly what you're looking for. This way you'll have something to compare and you'll make the best choice possible.
• Take it to a mechanic: Ask the seller if you can take the car to a mechanic before you buy. If they don't approve then it's your choice, but I would walk away. A local mechanic would be happy to inspect a car for a fee of course, but the fee is well worth it when you think about the amount of money you might be spending on continuous repairs in the future. A mechanic will tell you exactly what's wrong and right with the car.
• Tires: A car should have all the same make and size tires. It is dangerous to drive with mismatching tires.
• Inspection: Make sure the car has an inspection sticker. If it doesn't you could be spending a lump sum to pass inspection. If the seller doesn't have it inspected as him/her to have it inspected this way you'll know what needs to be done.
• Service History: Ask to see the car's service history. Any receipts or proof that the car has been maintained is needed to see exactly what has been done to the car.

If you are patient and take measures to find a great car, you should find a car that is worth buying. Remember, the car is only as good as the previous owner(s) have kept it so if you don't trust the owner don't buy the car. If it doesn't feel, sound, drive, or act right then walk away. Good luck with your next purchase and drive it how it was meant to be driven!

--M/o

1985.5 Porsche 944: Next Steps

Next Steps:

Bringing this car back to 1985 is going to be a challenge to say the least. There is so much to do and so many obstacles that I face. This will be my first restoration plus the biggest challenge is not having a garage. Working on a car in a garage is priceless. Having a warm, locked-off area that shelters you from the elements where you can leave the car and your tools in pieces and not worry about theft, corrosion, and distractions is almost a necessity. But you make due with what you have and what I have is next to nothing, aside from the "drive" for cars, mechanical inclination, and the monetary need to sell this car.

Luckily, I do have a spot in a parking garage with shelter from rain and snow but it is technically still outdoors. So, for the sake of my reputation, my love for classic cars, and for the sake of the buyer, I will not take shortcuts nor short change any part of the car. Whatever this 944 needs to look and drive like new, it will get. Here's what I know it needs in order of priority:

• 4-tires
• front wipers
• windshield
• rear turn signal bulb
• rear side marker bulb
• exhaust
• power steering belt
• 2-hood support struts
• 4-spark plugs
• 5-ignition wires
• distributor rotor
• idle control valve cleaning
• inspection
• rear hatch release switch
• sun visor clip
• some body work
• a paint job
• center arm rest
• leather sunroof bag
• A/C blowing warm air

Following the paint job:

• rear lock seal
• Porsche decal (rear)
• reassembly

On a car this old there will be plenty of things that need attention that you can't predict so be sure to factor this into your budget. Old parts break during procedures, rubber seals need replacing, and things tend to stay hidden until uncovered.

You can never know everything you'll need before starting so it is a good idea to shop around for the best deals. You might be tempted to buy the first few items you find for an okay deal but be patient when it comes to ordering because chances are you'll miss something if you rush and you'll pay more for shipping in the end. Also, during certain procedures, find out if parts need replacement after removal. Sometimes you can't use a part after it has been removed, you'll need to replace brand new such as but not limited to rubber gaskets and rusty nuts and bolts. Normally it's a good idea to replace some parts that may need service during a procedure if they're cheap enough and difficult to get to later.

The good with the bad, I think I bought a good little car for little money and a lot of character. It's a hell of a challenge for my first project and the learning curve is going to be a slap in the face since it is German engineered but who's got the time to learn the right way?
First priority is getting this thing ready for an inspection. All bulbs have to be functioning properly, windshield needs to be flawless, and emissions need to pass so the exhaust is very important. I'll be posting updates periodically so check back soon and wish me luck!

--M/o

1985.5 Porsche 944: The Purchase

The Search: I first spotted this 1985.5 Porsche 944 on Craigslist for $3250, which was over my budget. I had a hand full of cheaper 944s I was looking at, a few BMW 6 Series CSIs, and a VW Corrado. So I saved the internet link to the car for later but had no intentions of going to see it, yet. I went all over New York and New Jersey in search for the right car. A car with a distinguished soul, but a fatigued appearance in need of some TLC.

When you're looking to buy a car make sure you do extensive research and when you think you've done enough, keep going. You may take it lightly, but when it comes to specialized cars the gamble is tenfold. Don't just go out and wing it. Classic cars, or just plain cool cars, will always have online owner forums that are usually free to join and give you great tips that you can't get anywhere else. Type your car's name plus the word forum in a search engine and you'll find plenty of web forums. Read through the posts about troubles, repairs, problems, and parts and you'll soon get a feel for some of the more common problems with the car. This will tell you how easy it is to source parts, get service, and how difficult the car is to work on. Search for repairs that need special care that you might not be able to do on your own. If you feel the need, post your own question about the car possibly asking what to look out for when buying the car and expert owners will most likely be happy to give you advice.

After weeks of research, I decided to go looking. I visited a small dealership in New Jersey to find an '84 944 with tons of engine problems. Then another '84 with less engine trouble but the owner had spray painted the interior red, plus he wanted $2500 for the car and it needed far too many repairs. After seeing a few bad eggs, I kept searching for the right one. I searched everywhere and finally came back to the 944 that was listed for $3250. The owner had reduced the asking price to $3000 even. So I gave him a call and he seemed like a nice guy. He had Porsches from the past and present, including a '97 911 and a Boxster. So I decided to give it a shot.

First Glance: When looking at a car that you're seriously thinking about buying, you need to find your inner detective, especially with older cars. You'll need to get your hands dirty so wear some old clothes! Don't let the owner sway you toward any area of the car. You need to be in control. First, look everywhere for rust. On the body panels, under the fenders, on the pillars, under the car, on the frame, the exhaust, under the driver and passenger carpets, in the trunk under the carpet. These are all places where rust will likely form first. If it's too rotten, walk away. Also, make sure all glass is in good condition, especially on high-end cars or you'll be spending a fortune to replace it.

This Guard's Red '85.5 944 was looking a bit tired when I first approached it. The owner was desperately pumping air into the tires as I walked up to the car. They were dry-rotted and leaking to the point that I almost didn't take it out for a test drive. It had awfully faded paint and had been off the road for some time. The last inspection was 2007 and I could tell...

When I looked closely, there was a crack the size of Germany on the passenger side windshield, and a dent in the front nose panel under the head lamp. It looked as if it was weeping from neglect. It had a bit of rust and a dent by the back wheel well. Around back were some blemishes in the paint that looked like some surface rust forming. This car wasn't looking good, but, it wasn't all bad.

When I opened the driver's door I was surprised by a black leather interior that looked spectacular! For a car that was almost as old as me there was very little wear. And everything inside worked! Well, almost everything. The leather center armrest had a small tear, there was a clip missing for the sun visor and the rear hatch release button was not working, but the key opened it manually so I was hoping it was the switch that was bad and not the release motor. Power sunroof, power windows, power mirrors, power seats....all working. It had a modern CD player and upgraded speakers with a Kenwood amp in the hatch. The dash board had cracks in it which is expected of any '80s 944. But overall, the interior was in good condition.

Other than a few bumps and bruises, the body panels were in good shape and the wheels were perfect phone dials, classic 80's Porsche design. It was impressive how original the car was, from top to bottom. No gaudy 18" chrome rims. No after market wing. No bolted-on body kit. Just a solid, original Porsche.

I opened the hood and the engine compartment was dry and uncleaned, just how I like it. The owner hadn't cleaned under the hood so any leaks or troubled areas would be visible. Good news! There were no leaks, no oil, no fluids, and although it needed a bit of cleaning, it was only a bit of dust.

The finest bit was starting the engine. Suddenly that weeping 4-banger turned into a 2.5 liter sports car that was just asking to be resurrected. The motor sounded healthy and strong but the exhaust was letting it down. It sounded like the muffler had to go.

Test Drive: Apparently the owner had some trust issues because when I asked to take it for a test drive, he wanted to sit in the passenger seat and talk about the car the whole time, which wasn't all that bad. He described the history of the car. How he had bought it years ago, kept it for a while, sold it to a friend, then missed it so much that he bought it back. That was great and all, but I was trying to listen to the engine, transmission, exhaust, suspension and the owner blabbing away at the same time.

I took it for a thorough drive. You want to take a car out for at least 20 minutes to get it to show you its real face. How is the temperature, the oil pressure? Are the clutch and transmission smooth? Can you hear any noises coming from the suspension? How is the steering? Responsive? Loose? How does the engine power feel at different RPMs? Any hesitation? Are the brakes working well? All of these things are "clues" to the things that may need work.

I took it out on the thruway, on back roads, bumpy roads, winding roads, up hills, down hills, slammed the brakes a few times. Everything seemed pretty good, except for that sad exhaust sounded terrible and the rotten tires were misguiding the car all over the place. It became apparent that there was a good car under that aged skin.

If a motor isn't running well, chances are the owner had not taken care of it throughout its life and if that's the case, it will probably never run well. But a car that is this old and is running this well has been properly maintained throughout its 25 years.

I drove the car back to the owner's house, parked it, and took a second look around to catch anything I might have missed. The more you look at the car, the more you'll notice. So I routed around and the owner was being fairly honest about what he thought needed to be done. He mentioned the obvious, new tires, a bit of body work, possibly the idle control valve needed to be cleaned. So after talking with him for a while, and spending some time inside and out of the car, I decided this car might be the best one I could find for the money so I proceeded to make him an offer...

The Purchase: Making an offer on a car can be a slippery slope when it comes to private sellers. Trying to get the best offer possible while still being reasonable is a difficult task, but hey, you give them an offer, if they don't like it, ask how much are they willing to negotiate. An owner is usually happier to take a reasonable price if it means getting the car of their hands. If they aren't willing, then walk away.

My bank account decided that I couldn't pay more than $2500 for the car. I told the owner I really wanted this car but I would have trouble giving him any more than that, plus I needed to research the cost of repair. Usually a proud owner would like to ensure their car is in good hands so he said to me, "If you can't come up with more than $2500, we'll have a deal" After researching parts and repair procedures I bought a Porsche for $2500! It was both an exciting and nerve racking day but I'm hoping it will all be worth it. Next Steps soon to come...

Check out the full slideshow below!

--M/o

History of the Porsche 944

The 924:

In 1977, Porsche introduced the 924. They had made arrangements with Volkswagen to produce a sports car who, in the end, decided to back out on the deal. Porsche took the opportunity to buy the car back from Volkswagen and called it the 924. It was a huge change for the company. A Volkswagen on the inside, Porsche on the outside? A front, water-cooled engine? Porsche on a budget? Sound backwards? This was the Porsche 924.

Porsche 924

Although it had Porsche badges, this was a mix of different cars. It had an Audi engine and parts from a Volkswagen van! But it was a rear-wheel drive hatchback, it was stylish and was a fun little car to drive and it still is. Porsche introduced the 924 just before they launched the more beefy Porsche 928 and just a few years later, the 944.

The 928:

The 928 was introduced a year later than the 924. Porsche doubled the cylinders, widened the stance, added some of the coolest pop-up lights, to make a powerful 220 horsepower V8 that was nicknamed "the land shark" from its distinctive front end. Porsche later added 'S', 'GT', and 'GTS' models to the line-up. The 928 cost about as much as a house when it was first introduced.

Porsche 928

The 944:

The 944 was a great midpoint between the 924 and 928. Porsche took the 924 platform and built a brand new car on it. They planned to replace the 911 but 911 fanatics protested. The 944 came in naturally aspirated, turbocharged, and cabriolet models. It came standard with a 2.5L 4-cylinder, powerful yet efficient engine and an optional limited-slip differential which is now a rare find. In prime conditions you can get upwards of 34mpg. In mid 1985 the 944 was updated with a modern dash and door panels, a radio antenna embedded in the windshield, and phone dial wheels. In 1989 it was upgraded to a 2.7L engine. There was also a 944 S with slightly more horsepower and the turbo (also called the 951) was inter cooled and produced 220 horsepower to achieve a 0-60mph time of 5.5 seconds. The 944 was given optional wider fenders, more Porsche parts and more power than the previous 924. Optional equipment included a club sport package, limited slip differential, headlight washers, automatic speed control, central locking system, power windows, power mirrors, power seats, alarm system, airbags, leather interior, power sunroof and plenty more.

The 944 was and still is a great little car. Although naturally aspirated models only have 150 horsepower, there is plenty of torque and thanks to great Porsche engineers, the weight distribution is next to perfect making the handling amazing around corners. It is now considered a classic Porsche and has a huge consumer base with plenty of followers, online forums, and part suppliers making it a great and somewhat affordable classic car to own.

Porsche 944

--M/o